A soup that is delicious cold, but very good warm. To serve cold, it must be refrigerated for a few hours. If you serve it warm, bring just to a simmer, not to the boil. If you can’t find fresh poblano chiles, you can sub anaheims or jalapeños (use just a couple of tablespoons of jalapeños) or canned green chiles, which you should allow to drain some before adding.

1 T vegetable oil
1 c chopped scallion, or onion
1/2 c finely chopped, seeded poblano chile
1 garlic clove, minced
1 t ground coriander
1 t ground cumin
1/2 ground turmeric
2 1/2 c corn kernels
4 c buttermilk
salt and (white) pepper, to taste
fresh chopped herb, for garnish

1. Heat oil in a skillet over medium heat. Cook scallion, chile, and garlic for about 3 minutes. Add spices and cook, stirring for a minute or two, until they are fragrant. Add corn and sauté until the kernels begin to brown, about 5 minutes. If they’re not browning, don’t worry. Remove from heat and allow to cool some.

2. Transfer about 1 1/2 cups of the corn mixture to a food processor. Whizz to smash the kernels up a bit. Add 2 cups of the buttermilk and purée to a smooth consistency.

3. If serving cold, remove to a large bowl and stir in the remaining corn mixture and last 2 cups of buttermilk. Season with some salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for several hours, until well chilled. If serving warm, put purée into a saucepan and add remaining corn mixture and last 2 cups of buttermilk. Season with salt and pepper and bring just to the simmer.

4. Serve, garnished with fresh, chopped herb.